Sable Dam & Satara – Backlit Lions

Sunday started fairly slowly. We left camp minutes after the gate opened, and cruised slowly up the S100, enjoying the beautiful sunrise. Our first sighting was of a Swainson’s Spurfowl, perched on a fallen tree, trying to warm itself in the early sunlight.

Hippos_MG_6459After that, we saw only the usual Impala and Zebra, intent on grazing and disinterested in posing for photos. We tried to shoot a few Burchell’s Coucals, but they all disappeared deep into the bushes as soon as we pointed a camera at them. The viewpoints over the N’wanetsi were as picturesque as ever, but delivered very little in terms of photo opportunities. The Gudzani dam hosted only a few Pied Kingfishers and some crocodiles lying sleepily on the dam wall, looking bored. At the crossing over the N’wanetsi river, we took a few photos of the hippos lying lazily in the water, before proceeding to the N’wanetsi picnic site for breakfast.

SweniRiver_IMG_6890After breakfast, we turned right towards the Sweni hide. Both the hide and the crossing over the Sweni river offered up some water birds, but no new species and no photo opportunities, so we took the H6 back to Satara.

Some distance down the tar road, we found a chameleon, bravely crossing the road. Having seen chameleon fall victim to cars before, we stopped and turned the car, blocking any potential traffic, until it had safely made it to the other side. Feeling good about helping a chameleon safely cross the road, we carried on.

Back at the camp, we bought take-away iced coffees from Mugg & Bean, before driving north along the H1-4. A few kilometres outside the camp, another car flagged us down and told us that further down the road, in the direction we were going, there was a leopard in a tree on the right side of the road, and about 100m further, a pride of lions. Very excitedly, we continued on.

But first, we had to stop and take one of the best photo opportunities we’ve ever had on ground hornbills.

We found the leopard easily, thanks to the cars parked under the tree. The leopard itself was unfortunately asleep, mostly obscured by leaves, so we decided to move on to the lions.

What an opportunity! Even though the lions had the sun behind them, the sun was so low by then, as well as being filtered by the smoke from the ever-present veld fires, that we were able to take some beautiful backlit photos.

When the lions had moved beyond the reach of even our longest lenses, we turned back. Having a some time left before the gates were due to close, we drove a short distance up the S90, where we found some Swainson’s spurfowl taking dust baths in the ash. Another good photo opportunity, even though the light was so low that I had to mush the 1D mk IV to ISO 2000 to get the shot!

Sable Dam & Satara – Wild Dogs!

When we left the picnic site after breakfastWildDog_D__8743 veld on either side was dry and dusty and seemingly devoid of any life. Then, as it happens in the Kruger Park, we turned a corner and everything changed. A few cars were parked by the side of the road, and just off the road, under the trees, were the wild dog pack from the previous night, looking very sleepy and relaxed. We took a few quick snaps, but soon decided that sleepy dogs in harsh light will never make truly stunning photos.

Wild dogs usually sleep during the day. They wake up in the late afternoon, play for a few minutes, and then move off to hunt. Knowing this, we let the sleeping dogs lie (ha ha) and left, planning to return around 3 in the afternoon, and then wait for them to get up and start playing. We went back to the camp, freshened up, had some ice-cream, and then went back to the dogs. We waited about an hour, during which we at least got to photograph a rasp of guineafowl the moved past, briefly getting agitated when the saw the dogs.

The dog closest to the road briefly woke up, and stared at the guineafowl for a few minutes before falling back to sleep.

Then, one of the dogs sleeping further away from the road got up and went to wake up one of its fellows. Their activity seemed to rouse the other dogs, and suddenly the entire pack seemed to come alive..

We managed to get a few more shots before they moved off into the bushes and we left the area with broad smiles on our faces. On our way back to the camp, we passed the Nsmani dam, with the sun setting spectacularly through the smoke of distant velt-fires. A perfect end to a fabulous day!

Sable Dam & Satara – A very productive morning

Saturday morning, after oversleeping slightly, we drove North on the H1-4, in the direction from where we had heard the lions roar the night before. We passed the usual herds of Zebra and Wildebeest just outside Satara, and about half and hour after leaving the camp, came across a Bateleur perched on the dry stump, posing for the perfect photo, the way Bateleurs never seem to do, so we stopped and took a few shots.

When it flew away, it’s perched was almost immediately taken by a Tawney Eagle. We couldn’t believe our luck! As we sat photographing the Eagle, it was suddenly chased off it’s perched by another Tayney. Johan managed to get a shot of the action.

The Tawney flew a few metres and perched on the other side of the tree, almost looking sorry for itself…

When both Tawneys finally left, we drove on.

40 mintues after leaving the Eagles, we were stopped by another car, who told us that they had just caught a vague glimpse of a cat that could could be a cheatah, disappearing under the road. We scanned the opposite side of the road for a short while, and soon saw a beautiful leopard strolling away through the grass, towards a big tree some distance from the road. As we waited, if climbed the tree and draped itself over one of the lowed branches.

When we were satisfied that we had got the photos we wanted of the leopard, we drove further, turning off onto the S127, towards the Timbavati picnic spot. When we got the crossing of the S127 and S39, it was still only 9:15, and the light was still perfectly reasonably for photography, so we decided to turn right and go check out the Ratelpan hide before breakfast. As we turned into one of the lookout points over the Timbavati river, we saw a herd of elephants leaving the river bed, and going into the bush towards the road. We quickly turned around and drove towards where we hoped they would cross the road, and were just in time to turn and around again, and photograph then as the crossed the road behind us. It was quite a big herd, including several tiny babies, and at least one teenage bull full of attitude.

After that we briefly popped into the hide saw a few water birds bravely sharing the river bed with large crocodiles, and returned to the Timbavati picnic spot for breakfast.

Sable Dam & Satara – Elephant Memorial

On Friday, 30 May we took a leisurely drive down to Satara, where we would stay for the rest of the trip. On the way, we stopped at Letaba, where we had lunch at the temporary “Boskombuis”, with the most delicious home-made lemonade we have ever had! After lunch, we popped in at the Elephant hall – definitely worth a visit!

Driving down the H1-5 along the Olifants river, we came across a rather unique sighting – the carcass of of an adult elephant bull, still unopened and with ivory intact, lying on the river bank. As we sat watching the crocodiles and vultures trying to get through the thick skin, a breeding herd of elephants walked out of the bushes across the river and approached the carcass. The stood for a few minute, smelling the carcass without touching it. As we sat photographing the encounter, the emotion from the elephants were almost tangible. A young bull seemed particularly upset, shaking his head and stomping his feet.

Another interesting thing was that as soon as the herd appeared, all the crocodiles scattered, reappearing only when the herd walked away.

A short distance further, we happened upon a pair of fish-eagles in a dry tree – always an excellent photo opportunity!

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A few kilometers from Satara, we were welcomed by a pack of Wild dogs coming in our direction (followed by the expected convoy of tourist cars). Since we  were extremely tired and dirty after very little sleep and no showers at the hide and the sun had already gone, making photographing the very active dogs near impossible, we simply enjoyed watching them pass, and then moved on towards the camp.

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Our allocated bungalow (no 14) was warm and inviting, and after unpacking and taking showers, we decided to skip the braai and have dinner at the new Mugg &Bean.

I will definitely recommend making use of the new restaurants! The staff, looking SataraChalet_IMG_6879smart in their crisp, new uniforms, were friendly and enthusiastic. The food was of the same high quality one expects from Mugg & Bean outlets in the city. Even the peppermint crist tart we had for dessert was great. All in all, a very pleasant experience!

Sable dam & Satara, 2014 – Sable Dam Hide

We entered through Phalaborwa gate just after 4pm. The very friendly gate staff supplied us with the keys to the enclosure around the hide, a braai grid and a rechargeable light. As is customary, we turned off the radio and opened the windows as we slowly drove the few kilometres to the hide.

SableDam_IMG_6842Sable dam was still very full after the heavy rains of March, and the bush around it lush and green. We pulled into the hide and unpacked our cameras just in time to photograph the spectacular sunset, reveling in the fact that we didn’t have to hurry away to get to another camp or gate in time.

The amenities at the hide is very basic, but sufficient. There are two braai-areas, complete with braai, some seating, and a table with a bench where one can sit if want to. Inside the hide are 9 beds with surprisingly decent mattresses. Both doors have sliding locks, and all the viewing opening inside the hides have mesh shutters that can also close with sliding locks, to keep unwanted “guests” out during the night.

SableDam_IMG_6876When the sun was gone, we built the braai fire and had dinner, followed by hot-chocolate, made with water boiled on the fire, while listening to the night sounds and marveling at the intensity of the stars. Lions, Hyaena and Jackal raised their voices above the background noises of insects and the bats that prey on them. Once, an amazingly loud lapping-sound turned out to be a spoon bill filtering through the shallows towards the right side of the hide.

Early the next morning, we re-stoked the fire, boiled water for coffee, and left the hide behind, hoping to find the owners of some of the voices we heard through the night. We found one – a lone Black-backed, that paused in the grass, lit by the early morning sun, just long enough for a few quick photos.