Kgalagadi – Gemsbok fight

Very early in the trip we noticed that the Gemsbok bulls were extremely aggressive toward one another. As the days passed by, we became more and more determined to get photos of two Gemsbok bulls fighting. So, when an outsider approached to herd calmly drinking at 13th borehole, we were watchful.

Gemsbok bulls sizing up each other

The dominant bull was also watchful, and decidedly unimpressed with the stranger approaching his herd at his waterhole, and clearly intending to mate with his cows. Within minutes, they locked horns.

Almost immediately, the dominant bull pierced the intruder’s shoulder with its horn. This, however, did not work out as well as the dominant bull would have wanted, when the intruder started turning away, forcing the horn and thereby the dominant bull’s head into a very uncomfortable position. They struggled in that position for a while, and all the time we sat breathless, waiting for the dominant bull’s neck to break!

When they finally disengaged, they reengaged again so quickly, that you could easily have missed it. Except now they weren’t quite locked together and it was just a pure muscle again muscle, horn against horn fight. Possibly one of the most violent things I have ever seen firsthand!

It was the intruder that finally went in for the kill – trying to stab the dominant bull in the side with his horn. The dominant bull realised in the nick of time that he was in trouble, disengaged and took off running. The intruder chased him for a few circles around the waterhole, before he finally gave up and ran for his life across the riverbed.

And that was how the Gemsbok herd at 13th borehole that day, got a new dominant bull.

Kgalagadi – Murder on the Nossob Road! (Whodunit?)

Setting: Bedinkt Waterhole on the Nossob road

The body was discovered early morning, lying in the road next to the Bedinkt waterhole.

Brown Hyaena carcass

Cause of death was determined as having its throad ripped open 

This suspicious character was found loitering near the crime scene –

Lion

First investigations revealed that the suspect had an injured front paw (and a very full tummy) –

Lion

When confronted, the suspect denied that there even was a crime, quoting “The law of the Jungle.” Arrest was postponed to give the investigating officer time to consult with prosecutors about this alleged legislation.

Upon returning to the scene of the crime, it was discovered that the suspect had disappeared. It is suspected that he snuck across the border into Botswana during the night.

The cleanup crew had also already moved in –

Jackal feeding on Brown Hyaena carcass
Jackal feeding on Brown Hyaena carcass

No arrests were made.

CASE CLOSED.

Kgalagadi – Brown Hyaenas at Bitterpan

On our last morning at Bitterpan, we woke up to find a Brown Hyaena at the waterhole. After seeing them visit the waterhole several times during our stay at Bitterpan, this did not cause stunned amazement anymore, but only excitement at getting another opportunity to get an even better shot.

Then, another Brown Hyaena appeared, to which the first one seemed to take violent exception. What followed, was probably one of the most incredible sightings of the trip, if not our lives. The two hyaenas chased each other around the camp, and even briefly rolled around in a very unfriendly embrace (behind some bushes where we couldn’t photograph it, of course), before one was chased off.

After all of this, we were of course way behind schedule and had to scramble to vacate our unit and load the car, but what an incredible way to end our stay at Bitterpan!

Kgalagadi – Bitterpan

Bitterpan was an absolutely amazing experience, starting with the access road! After our morning at the hide, followed by the business of loading the car, checking out, stocking up with firewood and other necessities, filling up the car and letting down the tires some more, we finally hit the road just before 11 am. This was our first mistake, as the sun was already high in the sky and, as we would learn, heat loosens up the sand even more, making it even harder to drive!

Regardless of the late start and the mild difficulties on the road, we were still first to arrive at a deserted camp. Bonus – we got the best unit, and to be the first visitors to pick a fridge!

We set up our tripods in the braai enclosure that overlooks the pan, and one of our first sightings was of a herd of Red Hartebeest making there way across the pan towards the waterhole.

Braai with a view, Bitterpan


We stayed in Bitterpan for two nights. Bitterpan has a reputation for not providing very many, or very spectacular sightings, so we were prepared to spend two nights and a day just lazing about and enjoying the atmosphere. But, contrary to all our expectations, we were properly spoiled with some amazing sightings. There were Gemsbok on the pan, stunning scenery, and many small birds to keep us entertained. Brown Hyaena, Jackals and even a late-night Leopard visited the waterhole. Honey Badgers trotted past the camp in search of food.

And then there was the “Brown Hyaena Incident”, which deserves its own blog post!

Kgalagadi – Wildebeest in the dust

The morning before we left Nossob for Bitterpan, we decided to spend some time in the hide, rather than either going out for an early drive or leaving early for Bitterpan. The gamble paid of spectacularly, with a herd of Blue Wildebeest arrived at the waterhole around 7:30.

Under normal circumstances, a herd of Blue Wildebeest isn’t always the most spectacular sighting. However, with all the dust kicked up being gently back-lit by the early morning light, the resulting photos were quite special, and very quintessentially Kalahari…