Kgalagadi – Bitterpan

Bitterpan was an absolutely amazing experience, starting with the access road! After our morning at the hide, followed by the business of loading the car, checking out, stocking up with firewood and other necessities, filling up the car and letting down the tires some more, we finally hit the road just before 11 am. This was our first mistake, as the sun was already high in the sky and, as we would learn, heat loosens up the sand even more, making it even harder to drive!

Regardless of the late start and the mild difficulties on the road, we were still first to arrive at a deserted camp. Bonus – we got the best unit, and to be the first visitors to pick a fridge!

We set up our tripods in the braai enclosure that overlooks the pan, and one of our first sightings was of a herd of Red Hartebeest making there way across the pan towards the waterhole.

Braai with a view, Bitterpan


We stayed in Bitterpan for two nights. Bitterpan has a reputation for not providing very many, or very spectacular sightings, so we were prepared to spend two nights and a day just lazing about and enjoying the atmosphere. But, contrary to all our expectations, we were properly spoiled with some amazing sightings. There were Gemsbok on the pan, stunning scenery, and many small birds to keep us entertained. Brown Hyaena, Jackals and even a late-night Leopard visited the waterhole. Honey Badgers trotted past the camp in search of food.

And then there was the “Brown Hyaena Incident”, which deserves its own blog post!

Kgalagadi – Wildebeest in the dust

The morning before we left Nossob for Bitterpan, we decided to spend some time in the hide, rather than either going out for an early drive or leaving early for Bitterpan. The gamble paid of spectacularly, with a herd of Blue Wildebeest arrived at the waterhole around 7:30.

Under normal circumstances, a herd of Blue Wildebeest isn’t always the most spectacular sighting. However, with all the dust kicked up being gently back-lit by the early morning light, the resulting photos were quite special, and very quintessentially Kalahari…

Kgalagadi – Kieliekrankie

The first camp we stayed in after Twee Revieren, was Kieliekrankie. It is a beautiful camp situated high on a dune, overlooking a waterhole. There is no electricity, but with solar-powered lights and gas geysers, fridges and stoves, you hardly notice it.

First view of Kieliekrankie from the access road
View from the balcony, Kieliekrankie

The highlight of Kieliekrankie is definitely the deck, featuring a braai with a view over the red dunes and flood-lit waterhole.

The only downside of Kieliekrankie, for us, was that lack of wildlife in the area. You rarely see anything on the dune road. You really have to drive to either one of the main river-bed roads to see a lot of wildlife. So Kieliekrankie was not a good base for wildlife photography, in our experience. However, it would definitely be a good place to go if you want solitude, quiet and beauty.

Staying at Kieliekrankie, and hanging out around Aughterlonie as late as we dared in the afternoon, did give us one of the best sightings of the trip – an African Wild Cat, lying in the riverbed and then getting up and walking away.

Kgalagadi, September 2019

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park has always been on our bucket list, so we were very excited when we finally made it there in August/September 2019.

We spent two weeks travelling through the park, staying in 6 out of the 9 camps on the South African side – Twee Revieren, Kieliekrankie, Nossob, Bitterpan, Mata-Mata and Urikaruus.

When we were there, the park was incredibly dry. So dry, that most of the wildlife had moved North into Botswana, where it was less dry. Nevertheless, we had an incredible time!

The South African side of the park has two main roads, running alongside (and sometimes in!) the two dry river beds. The Auob river road takes you West from Twee Revieren, past Urikaruus and Kalahari Tented Camp, and ends at Mata-Mata camp, where you can also exit the park across the border into Namibia. The Nossob road takes you past Nossob camp, up to Grootkolk and Garaghab and ends at the Union’s End picnic side, where South Africa, Namibia and Botswana come together. You cannot exit here, though. It is a dead end.

In between the two main roads are the two so-called “dune roads”. Contrary to their names, they don’t actually require any dune driving. Both dune roads are well-maintained gravel roads. In fact, they are usually the best roads in the park!

The “lower” dune road is closer to Twee Revieren and takes you past Kieliekrankie camp. The “upper” dune road is deeper into the park and passes a few kilometres East of Bitterpan, which can only be reached via its own, dedicated 4×4 access road.

In between the camps, there are a few basic picnic sites as well as a few viewpoints where you can drive onto the dunes that flank the river beds and roads to get a view of the interior of the park, as well as a bird-eye view of the river beds.

Mapungubwe – Maloutswa hide

The Maloutswa hide was, for us, the highlight of Mapungubwe. Of course, we were fortunate to be there when the dam was full. When there is less water, it would be considerably less spectacular.

View from the Maloutswa hide, towards the left

Nevertheless, we spent three two mornings and three afternoons in the hide. The view over the dam was simply beautiful. The hide is perfectly designed to allow photography both in the morning and in the afternoon. One simply has to sit on opposite sides of the hide and shoot in the right direction for the current light conditions.

Sightings included Little Egrets –

Little Egret Hunting

Grey Herons –

Grey Heron

African Jacana –

African Jacana with catch

A Woodlands Kingfisher, perching so close to the hide that I eventually had to switch to a shorter lens!

Woodlands Kingfisher with catch
Elephants playing in front of the Maloutswa hide

And the last morning, we even saw a small herd of Elephants swimming and playing in the dam a few meters from the hide.

Overall, this was one of the most successful photography trips we had ever taken. Many more photos taken from the hide and around the park can be found in the Trip Gallery.